Jerusalem

It was July 2015 when I visited Jerusalem, and the Holy City was at boiling point both in regards to the temperature as well as the social climate. Because this special place has so much history, it is difficult to even know where to begin to describe what it was like, but I will try my best:

The first thing to note is that the City is not called the Far East, or even the Middle East; it is called specifically the Holy Land because it is the centre point of three major religions. I viewed the city from the perspective of a Western Christian; the Jewish community see it as a sacred place which God gave to them, his chosen people; and the Muslim's hold Jerusalem as one of their holiest pilgrimage sites.

In such light, Jerusalem has and still continues to affect many aspects of history around the World.

In my mind's eye Jerusalem is an eternal city, and is one of the few places that exist on earth, as it does in heaven or lore. What do I mean by this?

A history of Jerusalem has to be a history of both truth and legend. I have always had an interest in the Holy Land, as it has such a insightful history, with lots of religious legend. As a historian, when one visits the Holy Land you have to think that you are a detective and you have to play with what is true and what is false. There are so many myths and distorted truths which have become legend, that one can get lost in transit.

For example, in the Bible one comes to know King Herod as a violent demagogue who killed children on hearing of Christ's birth. However the historical Herod the Great lived around 40 BC and was better known then for dealing tactfully with the Romans as well as negotiating the politics of his own kingdom, which then encompassed most of the Holy Land. To put it mildly he had a lot on his plate.

Herod was also well known for building his expensive and expansive palaces. Herod would have used the latest technology to build his palaces. In 23BC Herod expanded the western fortifications of Jerusalem by building a new towered citadel and palace complex. A city within a city, as one must think of it.

Sadly, when I visited the complex it was not 23 BC and it did not look as splendid as it would have then, rather it looked more like a ruin! Herod would be turning in his grave if he knew what had happened to one of his many palaces.

Herod's wealth came from his landholdings all over the Middle East. Herod owned a half to two-thirds of his kingdom. He taxed and exported spices. He exported his local wines, and drank the Italian vintages. In essence Herod was much more than the myth he has sadly become.

And it is not just religion that this unique mythology touches upon, but also trade.

Jerusalem was also considered "the centre of the world' in medieval times especially in connection with the Silk Road. This was considered the key that unlocked Empires as it started in China and wend its way across many countries and territories before finishing in the Holy Land, covering a huge expanse. Jerusalem was, ergo, at the centre of these explorations and economic expansionist ideas.

Jerusalem has been destroyed at least twice, and besieged 23 times. In 1538 the city walls were rebuilt.

With all these facts floating around, one must think of Jerusalem like a painting: there is more than meets the eye.

When I was in Jerusalem I had a very interesting three week tour of the Holy Land. The most religious place I visited was the Holy Sepluchure; the church where Jesus was crucified. We visited the thirteen stations of cross and walked the very hot and crowded streets of the old city. (I will never forget how hot it was, a memorable example is having to eat our ice cream in the shade otherwise it would melt!)

Where I stayed, in the grounds of my father's eye hospital, was equally a resonating experience, as my father's flat looked upon the mountain of olives. As the sun set on this historical pilgrimage site I felt comforted by the fact that the audience in front of me (in their graves) were themselves in some kind of peace.

I also did some walking in the hills of Jerusalem where Jesus was said to have walked. It was a difficult walk, yet I was determined to complete it. We were also taken to Jericho, which is considered by some to be the oldest city on Earth, as well as Acre, where there is a statue of Napoleon and Crusader tunnels.

Overall Jerusalem was inspiring although I would recommend to travel in winter so that it is not as hot as it is in summer. It is awe-inspiring, just walking through the streets of Jerusalem is like stepping back into history - what an experience!